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a small collection
fee is required for ‘white metal’ items like refrigerators,
washers and dryers. Other items should be bundled in manageable
sized bags or containers. Bulk trash is collected during one week
every month on the regular trash collection day.
With a dozen set of
skilled hands supplemented by part time and seasonal help, Mr.
Palmore is quick to give credit where credit is due - “…all in
all, I’m proud of the way the guys in this department handle the
‘job at hand’ no matter what it is or what the
circumstances.”
Community
News
The
effects of landscaping and lawn care practices on stormwater are
overwhelming. Lawns
produce significant amounts of nutrient-rich stormwater runoff,
and research shows that such runoff can cause significant damage
to streams, lakes, and estuaries. Research also suggests that
suburban lawns produce more surface runoff than previously
thought, and the average person has no idea what an impact they
have on local water supplies. If you ask the average person what
is the biggest source of waterway pollutants, they point to
industry. Regulations to those industries, including agriculture,
however, have greatly reduced the pollution problems they have
caused. As a result, residential runoff is now becoming a leading
source of pollution. Pesticide and nitrate fertilizer runoff can
contaminate drinking water supplies with chemicals toxic to both
humans and aquatic organisms. But generally speaking, homeowners
are not knowledgeable about the effects fertilizing the 40 million
acres of suburban lawns they maintain has on water supplies and
aquatic life.
If
classified as a crop, lawns would rank as the fifth largest in the
country on the basis of area after corn, soybeans, wheat, and hay.
Fertilizers applied to these lawns are roughly equivalent to the
application rates for farm row crops. Lawns receive an estimated
five to seven pounds of pesticides per acre annually and that
really adds up to big water quality problems. Despite this, few
residents
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consider lawn
fertilizer as a cause of water quality problems. Additionally, few
suburban landowners are aware of their lawn's nutrient needs.
Only 10 to 20 percent
of lawn owners nationwide take soil tests to determine if
fertilization is even needed. Most lawn owners don't know the
phosphorus or nitrogen content of the fertilizer they apply or
that mulching grass clippings into lawns can reduce or even
eliminate the need to fertilize. Most don’t know that Fall, when
grass can better use nutrients, is the best time to apply lawn
fertilizer. If intelligent lawn care practices were used, a major
source of stormwater pollution and water quality problems in
residential communities would be mitigated.
Don’t get it wrong,
we all love our greener-than-green lawns, but a little intelligent
‘look-see’ at ‘best practices’ can’t hurt and may even
improve your lawn. First, with regards to fertilizers, all
fertilizer packages have three numbers on them (example: 10-10-10,
16-4-8). The numbers represent the percentages of nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) – in that order – by weight.
This is also referred to as the N-P-K ratio. So, 16-4-8 fertilizer
is 16 percent nitrogen, 4 percent phosphorus and 8 percent
potassium. While all three are necessary for proper growth, many
soils have enough of certain nutrients. A soil test will help you
understand which nutrients your lawn lacks. The best fertilizer
for your lawn has a slowly available nitrogen source.
“Slow-release” nitrogen sources are usually stated on the
label, possibly as WIN or water-insoluble nitrogen, sulfur-coated
urea, natural organic nitrogen.
Second,
timing is not everything, but it is important. The timing of your
application of fertilizer depends primarily on the type of grass
you have, and
the lawn’s desired appearance, color, density, and uniformity.
Summer is best for warm-season grasses, like Bermuda grass and
zoysia grass. September – November is best for cool-season
grasses like Tall Fescue,
Rye or Bluegrass.
If you don’t know what
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grass you
have, extract a clump and bring it to a local nursery or seed
purveyor for identification.
Third,
apply fertilizer uniformly over the lawn. Nitrogen fertilizer will
generally “green-up” a lawn. Use a drop-type or rotary
spreader and be sure to overlap adequately. Check the
applicator setting often to be sure you’re applying the
fertilizer at the proper rate. Applying fertilizer by hand is not
recommended! Never apply more than 1 pound of soluble nitrogen per
1,000 square feet at one time. Remember, more is not better. Lawn
fertilizer is measured
in pounds per 1,000 square feet. To determine square feet,
multiply the length by the width of the area to be fertilized.
Last
but not least, mow high with a sharp blade: 2 to 3 inches for cool
season grasses and 1 – 1 ½ inches for warm-season grasses.
Don’t mow more than 1/3 of the blade at one time.
Don’t
mow or fertilize when grass is wet or under drought stress. Leave
clippings on your lawn – they reduce the need for nitrogen
fertilizer by as much as one-third. If clippings clump, spread
them over the lawn with a rake or pick them up and make compost.
Then
again have you ever considered reducing that lawn area by
landscaping techniques? Alternative landscaping techniques such as
naturescaping can be used. The side
benefit here is less lawn cutting and maintenance.
Naturescaping
returns native plants and wildlife habitat to your yard.
Naturescaping conserves water and energy, reduces water and soil
pollution, and creates a nature-friendly habitat. The practice is
founded on the use of native plants that are naturally resistant
to local pests and diseases. Once established, native plants can
often survive on rainwater alone. Naturescaping areas can be
created by replanting a section of lawn with a wildflower meadow,
a hummingbird and butterfly garden, or plants and trees selected
for seeds, fruit, and nectar, and nesting boxes. When creating a
naturescape, it is important to include four elements: food,
water, shelter, and adequate space. Keep the
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