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This site is dedicated to Fran McLaughin who created the original site from which we were all motivated to present all of what you see here.

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 Home> Aston Times -August 2007 - Page2
 
 

certain types of businesses. As cited in the adopted ordinance, “The purpose of this district is to provide freestanding retail, commercial and small office buildings for neighborhoods and/or communities in areas directly accessible by an arterial street.” Among the permitted uses, are “restaurants.” - the objective being to stimulate interest by family-oriented food establishments. It appears to have succeeded. Only months after passage, the likes of Applebees and Friendly’s are showing interest in that Free Standing Building district. So as usual “under the hood,” there’s a lot of work being done. The result is a strong business community responsive to the needs of the residents, and sensitive to Township’s objective of making Aston a better place to call home. 

Gardening With a Purpose 

Rain gardens are an interesting twist on environmental landscaping that can solve water retention problems while beautifying your yard. We all have those pesky little spots in the yard that become a problem when rainfall exceeds the norm.  The result is often a puddle or a huge plot of soggy grass. One cure is a rain garden and here’s the scoop.   
What is it…A rain garden is an attractive landscaping feature planted with perennial native plants. It is a bowl-shaped or saucer-shaped garden, designed to absorb stormwater run-off from impervious surfaces such as roofs and parking lots. 

Why….. Planting a rain garden may seem like a small thing, but if you calculate the amount of rain that runs off your roof, you would be very surprised. That rain is supposed to soak into the ground, but instead heads down the street to the storm drain, carrying pollution with it. Keeping rain where it falls, by putting it into a beautiful rain garden, is a natural solution. Plants native to Pennsylvania are the most suitable, but if your budget is tight or the plants are not readily available, you may be able use some existing plants from your yard and add native species later. Rain gardens don't require much space, can be fit into oddball shapes,

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and can be readily added to existing landscapes. They look nice, and anyone can make a rain garden - including you! 

How….. A rain garden is one type of “bio-retention”—a system of pond area, soil, plants and mulch that will retain water and soak it up instead of letting it run off of your property (even though your “pond” will be dry most of the time).  So the most basic things are the “pond,” or depression into which water will flow, and the soils that will absorb the water. Note the direction of runoff and low spots in your yard where water collects. If you are not sure where these are, and it's not raining, find them by running hose water on the ground. If these spots are away and downhill from your building foundations, they will be good places for your rain garden. If you have many low spots, you can choose those that are closest to the downspouts from your roof or nearest to a paved driveway. Drainage is important! Your rain garden needs to be able to absorb the water coming off your roof and driveway. In some sections of Delaware County, soils tend to be predominantly sand or clay. Sandy soils drain well, while clay soils may become waterlogged. If your soil is sandy, you may be able to simply loosen the soil and improve it with some compost to prepare your rain garden for planting. If your soil is clay, you will have more work to do. Even light clay soils may create very soggy problems if a lot of rain is directed to the rain garden.  Soil removal and replacement are often needed if your soil is clay. The recommended soil replacement mix is 50-60% sand, 20-30% topsoil, and 20-30% compost. Be sure no clay is in your replacement soil. Test your drainage! You can test your soil’s infiltration rate by digging a hole 8 inches wide and 8 inches deep. Pour a bucket of water into it and see how long it takes to sink in. The water needs to go down an inch per hour. If it takes longer than that, you will need to do additional site preparation to improve infiltration. 

When you prepare the garden for planting, you must create a dip in the middle where water will collect as it

sinks into the soil. There are various zones in a rain garden (very wet, wet to dry, and dry) and different kinds of plants will thrive at different zones. You may also adjust the depth of the depression to the infiltration rate. The standard depth for the ponding area is six inches. If you have very poor drainage in your existing soils, and your garden preparations still leave you with slow absorption rates, make your depression shallower to reduce the water that gets trapped there. If your soil sucks up water, make your garden deeper to increase its storage capacity. It’s generally best to keep the bottom of your rain garden’s depression flat; saucer-shaped rather than bowl shaped. That way, the rainwater will always spread out as much as possible. To be certain that your rain garden will function properly, simply replace the soil with the recommended rain garden mix mentioned above. Design it…You can’t have a rain garden that is too large.  However, any size garden will make a difference, even a small one.  The ideal situation is to create a garden that will absorb all the rain that would otherwise flow away from your yard. To calculate the most useful size of a rain garden, (1) figure out what kind of soil you have, and (2) estimate the area from which your garden will get rain. (Multiply width by length of your rooftop, to get square feet. Add the square feet of paved areas. Remember, though, that different parts of your roof drain to different downspouts—you want to estimate only the square footage that will drain into your rain garden. Don’t forget roof overhangs. )

For sandy soil, your rain garden should be 20-30% of the drain area. For example, if your roof and driveway measures 1200 square feet and all the rain from them will be used, your rain garden should be 20 to 30% of that, or 240-360 square feet.  (ex: 10’ X 24’). For clay soil, your rain garden should be about 60% of the drain area. If you improve your soil drainage and replace your soil with the rain garden soil mix mentioned above, your rain garden should generally be about 20-30% of the square footage of your drain area. Rain gardens for single-family homes

 

 

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