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 Home> Aston Times -Augsut 2007 - Page3 
 
 

will typically range from 150 to 400 square feet.

Sometimes creating a rain garden is as simple as directing rain to an absorbent swale in your yard and perhaps putting in a few plants. If you have no convenient place to direct your roof runoff, or you want a formal garden design, then it's time to get down and dirty. Most soils will need to be dug up and loosened to a depth of two feet, or replaced with rain garden soil mix mentioned above, not only to prepare for planting the garden but so rain can soak in.

Define the Borders! First, define the borders and shape of your garden at the location you have selected. Outline and mark the area to be dug. If the area is lawn, you will have to remove the turf. If you are not replacing your soil, double digging to a depth of two feet is recommended. Remove the soil from the hole and pile it to the side; then dig and loosen the earth in a new hole, and pile it loosely into the first hole. This is the time to mix compost into the soil, if you are doing soil improvements. Continue until the whole garden is prepared. To be certain that your rain garden will function properly, simply replace the soil with the recommended rain garden soil mix. This will give your new plants a great start, and the soil will soak up the rain. If your site soil is clay, total soil replacement is probably in order.

Grading the pond area. Grade the surface of your prepared rain garden bed in such a way that the water entering it can spread out over a large flat area and soak into the soil. This may involve removing a lot of soil. The depth of the dip should be about six inches. The depth can be graduated from the edges of the garden to the middle. When your pond area is ready and the soil is nice and loose, it's time to plant. The sooner the plants are in, the faster your rain garden will get established. It is best to use native plants in your rain garden whenever possible. Most rain garden designs are a combination of native species and of  non-native plants (for example, daylilies do very well in rain gardens). Timing is extremely important in obtaining


 

 

plants for your rain garden or bio-retention project. Growers try to anticipate needs for native plants and seeds, but it is not economically practical for them to grow plants they do not have a ready market for. Many of them grow plants to order, but it can take several years to grow plant material or collect seed for a specific project. This is complicated if you are seeking plants or seeds from a specific region. Keep this in mind when you are searching for particular plants or large quantities of plants. Designing the garden for easy maintenance is part of your planning process, so keep the following guidelines in mind:

Put the right plant in the right place. Choose plants or a design suited to the existing conditions of the site. For example; if a garden is in deep shade then plants that require sun are not going to thrive. Some plants are adaptable to certain soils, and some are not. Choose with the needs of the plants in mind.

If a plant is not happy, move it. Rain gardens also have three zones; very wet, wet-to-dry, and dry areas at the edges.  If a plant is not doing well in one location of the garden, it's a good idea to move it.

If you use a design with tall plants, think about how this will affect the view. Some prairie plants can grow ten feet tall. This could be a good thing, or not.                          

Mulch makes things easier. Plan to mulch your rain garden, which will keep it moist, protect your plants, discourage weeds, and make weeds easy to remove.

Design on a grid, which can be transferred to your garden site. Lay out the grid with string or markings. Then place the plants, in their pots, at the location on the grid where they are to be planted. Plants must be removed from their pots before planting, and don't pull them out by the stems, as you may damage the plant. Instead, loosen the root ball, then slide the plant gently out of the pot. Break the root ball up slightly, and place the plant in the soil at the

 

 

 

 

same level it was growing in the pot. Once the plants are in, give them a good watering to get them settled into their new home. Once the plants are in, the mulch is applied. Be sure the crowns of the plants are free of mulch. If there is a specific spot where rain is flowing into your garden, you will have to break up the flow with a few strategically placed rocks. Otherwise the force of the rain entering the garden will cause erosion.  These rocks can be part of your attractive design.   Sit back and enjoy your new rain garden. 

Municipal News 

Trash pickup schedule for September 3rd. Monday’s regular trash will be picked up along with Tuesday’s regular pickup on Tuesday September 4th. There will be no second pickup on Tuesday,  September 4th

Recycling…………Starting in Sept. the township Public Works Dept. will be picking up our recyclables in the township. This will be a significant cost savings and provide better service to the residents. Your recycling schedule will remain the same; the only difference will be that we are going to a single stream type system that will allow you to put your newspapers out to be picked up on the same day as the recyclables. We will continue to pick the papers up per the calendar until the end of the year when the newspapers will be added to the recycle schedule on the 2008 calendar. Any changes to the schedule due to holidays will be announced and posted on our access channel as well as published in the township newsletter and local newspapers. –Chairman of the Public Works Committee – Gary Robinson

Meeting and Special Events

August  2, 2007 (Thursday) 6:30pm
Aston Lions Club Dinner Meeting
St. James Episcopal

Concord Road

August 6, 2007 (Monday) 6:30pm
Public Works Committee Meeting
Aston Township Municipal Building

 

 

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